I'm busy working on my blog posts. Watch this space!
Posts à l'affiche
November 15, 2014
The concerned parts for the interior construction of the jacket are first and foremost the front, the shoulder, and the sleeve cap.
The shoulder and the sleeve cap
Depending upon the desired style of the sleeve cap, different supports will be used.
The most common is the Italian cut, characterized by a very natural shoulder which follows the shoulder line of the body.
As for the English cut, it presents a rather gentle shoulder slope with a very pronounced sleeve roll.
These different lines are obtained by modifying the thickness and the rigidity of the shoulder pads which affect the shoulder slope, and by using sleeve cap strips which allows one to obtain a roll by "forcing" the fabric to fold back onto the shoulder.
Below are 2 Blandin & Delloye jackets: The one on the left is made with an English line, the one on the right, with an Italian line.
More schematically, here is how the sleeve is sewn to the shoulder; notice the difference between the two:
The front of the jacket
You noticed it, between the lining of your jacket and the exterior fabric there are supports in the interior of your jacket.
These supports are destined to offer a clear drape which perfectly hugs the silhouette but also ensures the longevity of the garment.
We place a breastplate on the upper part of the front of the jacket in order to ensure an appropriate development of the chest. The breastplate provides a smooth and curved chest, as well as some tension at the front of the jacket.
Three different methods are used to construct the front of the jacket; here is our own definition of these, which can vary slightly:
Fused construction: As its name suggests, this requires thermal adhesives. The front of the jacket, from the shoulder to the bottom of the jacket, is indeed covered by a thermal adhesive attached at high temperatures. Furthermore, the set of supports between the pieces and the pockets are fused.
Half canvas construction: Close to the fused construction, it has a larger breastplate which doubles the lapel of the collar, as this construction borrows from the Full canvas construction the stitched lapel construction method.
Full canvas construction: This is the construction method that is used by artisanal tailors; it has also been adapted for garment factories. The front of the jacket is completely canvased, the canvas is sewn to the shoulder and finishes at the bottom of the jacket. The lapel of the jacket is stitched. The Full canvas construction has an exceptional support assembly method; they are assembled in primary fabric through more or less loose stitches which allow for more flexibility between each of the pieces that compose the jacket.
Of course, I am not going to tell you that the Full canvas construction isn't better: it offers a much better comfort and an outstanding resistance to time, notably because thermal adhesives lose their rigidity with time and have a tendency to dissociate from the fabric over time, creating little bubbles on the front of the jacket.
Despite the fact that the ready-to-wear industry has allowed for spectacular advances in the quality of fused constructions, it remains a fact that the thermal adhesives distort the fabric.
Furthermore, the thermal adhesives are made of synthetic material, altering the thermoregulatory qualities of the wool: you will always be less hot in a canvased suit than in a fused one.
Once you've reached a certain level of tissue quality, it is recommended that you opt for a Full canvas construction proposed by our Tuilerie range.