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How to adopt Harvey Specter's style?
October 9, 2015
Since season 1, the Web has been commenting on the attire of the most famous of business lawyers. Played by Gabriel Macht, Harvey Specter incarnates sucess but also a certain elite, his niche: Always be better than others!
To best characterize the personality of the character, production partnered up with Tom Ford for Harvey's tailored suits (Will Gabriel be inheriting these suits for his personal wardrobe? We hope for him!).
Let's now move on to reviewing the suits :
The cut of the suit does not exactly follow current trends as it does not strongly mark the waist, with limited fitting. This enables, notably, the character to have more volume and ensures a fluidity within his outfits (contrary to the character Louis litt, who in order to hide his forms adopts an ultra fit cut, which has as consequence to break in the front once he is seated or slightly raises his arms).
The length of the jacket is rather generous, balancing out well the chest and legs but, once again, not following current trends.
As with the jacket, the pants are very comfortable, adopting a rather straight cut of English inspiration with a rather generous pant-leg bottom.
First off, we immediately notice the large peak lapels (or "pointe lapels"). This is an element which contributes to the increase in a character's poise and the forging of his charisma. We note the lapel buttonhole done by hand in Milanese fashion.
The front of the jacket has two buttons. A topstitch seems to be systematically sewn on the jacket's lapel, flaps, and sleeve openings. This has for effect to better maintain the edges of the jacket, notably at the level of the notches.
The pockets at the front of the jacket are straight with 5cm flaps, and a patch pocket with flap as well completes the look.
The sleeve cap (at the break between the arm and shoulder) is English in inspiration with a prominent roll (also called "Padding" or "Con rolino") enhancing the shoulders and going perfectly with the peak lapels.
As for the pants, we can see that Harvey is not a fan of wearing a belt: he wears pants without belt loops with mechanical clamps on the sides. The pockets are classic (Italian), however.
Incarnating a corporate lawyer with a rather cold temperament, Harvey generally wears darker colors, sometimes with patterns but nothing eccentric. Here is a selection of fabrics perfectly appropriate for a suit project adopting Harvey Specter's style:
Dormeuil - Amadeus 365 - 100% wool 120'S
Holland & Sherry - Summer In the City - 70% wool 30% Teclana 120'S -
Fretalli Tallia Di Delfino - Napoli 2 - 100% wool 130'S
Ermenegildo Zegna - Cool Effect - 100% wool 190-200 gr